Ms.Rashmi Pandey
Asst.Prof.
Faculty of Pharmacy
Kalinga University Raipur
The phrases “moisturizer” and “emollient” are often used interchangeably in the context of skincare, particularly when referring to products that include occlusives and humectants. Emollients, which are mostly comprised of lipids and their components, function by filling the spaces between clusters of inter corneocytes, leading to improved skin flexibility, moisturization, and resilience. An occlusive is a moisturizer that is mostly constituted of oil. To minimize water loss through the epidermis, a hydrophobic layer is generated on the skin’s surface. In conclusion, it is crucial to acknowledge that humectants represent a category of moisturizers consisting of hygroscopic chemicals. These chemicals facilitate the process of water absorption by the stratum corneum, since they possess the capability to attract moisture from the dermis and humidity from the environment into the epidermis. The selection of a suitable moisturizer and its constant incorporation into one’s skincare regimen are essential elements for attaining desired effects.
1.2 Need of Moisturizer
The maintenance of personal appearance, specifically the state of one’s skin, has considerable significance due to its potential influence on an individual’s self-confidence. Moisturizing creams have been shown to improve patients’ quality of life, mental well-being, and social relationships by successfully reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Moreover, those who have both normal skin and dermatoses characterized by dry skin symptoms may possibly get favorable results by effectively using moisturizers. Changes in the sensory components of the skin, including alterations in visual and tactile properties, are identifiable markers of dry skin and contribute to the sense of skin dryness. Various discomforts and sensations of dryness that are linked to these symptoms include sensations of tightness, soreness, itching, stinging, and tingling. The management of dermatological diseases that lead to dry skin may be efficiently achieved by using moisturizers, which can disrupt the cycle of dryness and enhance the smoothness of the skin. Moisturizers fulfill a range of functions that extend beyond the simple act of hydrating the skin. Moisturizers include a range of potential uses.
A. Anti-inflammation
Several moisturizing substances, such as glycyrrhetinic acid, palmitoyl-ethanolamine, telmesteine, Vitis vinifera, ceramide-dominant barrier repair lipids, and filaggrin breakdown products, have shown anti-inflammatory effects. There are many approaches that may be used to alleviate inflamed skin, as shown in dermatitis. These ways include the limitation of cyclo-oxygenase activity, the suppression of cytokine production, and the reduction of proinflammatory prostanoid synthesis.
B. Antipruritic
Water-based moisturizers provide a cooling sensation on the skin as a result of the process of water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Furthermore, it should be noted that certain moisturizers may include menthol, hence enhancing the cooling effect and providing relief from bothersome sensations.
C. Antimitotic
Mineral oils with low-grade antimitotic properties provide therapeutic benefits for dermatoses, such as psoriasis, characterized by increased epidermal mitotic activity.
D. Wound healing
Multiple research investigations have shown that the use of hyaluronic acid has the potential to expedite the wound healing process.
1.3Working of Moisturizer
The skin serves as a protective barrier, shielding the internal physiological processes of the organism from a range of external elements including wind, water, germs, and chemicals. The presence of impaired function has been identified as a contributing cause to the increased trans-epidermal water loss that is often found in many forms of dermatitis.
The water that originates from the deeper layers of the epidermis ascends and then undergoes evaporation, thereby providing hydration to the cells within the stratum corneum.
The epidermal water content is a determining factor in the pliability and resilience to dryness of the skin. The stratum corneum, a highly dynamic membrane, has been analogized to a composite construction consisting of individual bricks and mortar. The occurrence of dry skin is often associated with a disruption in the development of the water barrier. This barrier relies on intercellular lipids, including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids.
The organization of the stratum corneum is of paramount importance in the regulation of the skin’s hydration, water retention, and general moisturization level. The regulation of the production and function of the stratum corneum is governed by four fundamental processes, including desquamation, natural moisturizing factor, corneocytes, and stratum corneum lipid. In the presence of moisture, the corneocytes that make up the physical barrier of the stratum corneum demonstrate enhanced flexibility. The lipid bilayers present in the stratum corneum function as a barrier against moisture and efficiently prevent the ingress of various substances. Nevertheless, they also provide a means for the vast majority of drugs that are administered externally. Corneocytes possess a composition of hygroscopic compounds that function as a moisturizing component, facilitating their ability to efficiently store and preserve moisture. Roughly half of the naturally occurring moisturizing constituents are comprised of amino acids that are sourced from the protein filaggrin, which is synthesized by keratinocytes. The remaining 50% consists of various salts, including lactates, urea, and electrolytes. The synthesis of natural moisturizing elements is directly impacted by the level of humidity in the surrounding environment. The process of desquamation involves the breakdown of corneo desmosomes, which is helped by a hydrolytic agent that is dependent on the presence of water for its activity. Nevertheless, it is important to acknowledge that this particular agent has diminished efficacy when applied to the stratum corneum with low levels of moisture. The manifestation of dry skin symptoms occurs as a result of a lack of cohesion among corneocytes, leading to their clustering in close proximity to the surface of the skin. This phenomenon is seen when the stratum corneum retains a water content of less than 10%
Moisturizers are essential for the restoration of the skin barrier and the maintenance of the structural and aesthetic integrity of the skin via their roles as humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Moisturizers have the ability to improve skin hydration by increasing the water content of the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum. This is achieved by the delivery of
water directly to the skin through the moisturizer’s water phase. Additionally, moisturizers promote occlusion, which helps to prevent the loss of water through the skin’s surface. Furthermore, these substances not only provide defense against friction and conceal small skin fissures, but they also
create a comforting and safeguarding barrier. Furthermore, apart from its role in filling the gaps between partly shed skin flakes, the process of skin hydration also aids in the restoration of the lipid bilayers’ ability to absorb, retain, and transport water. Consequently, this phenomenon helps to the attainment of a more consistent and seamless texture on the dermal surface. The destruction of corneocytes desmosomes leads to a reduction in the accumulation of corneocytes and an increase in their continuity, hence causing changes to the mechanical properties of the skin.
1.4 Moisturizer Content and Types
When used to mitigate issues associated with dry skin, moisturizer may be seen as both a cosmetic and a therapeutic agent. Moisturizers often include a range of excipients, including preservatives, antioxidants, and emulsifiers, in addition to their active ingredients. Recent studies have shown that both excipients and active chemicals have significant effects on the skin. Diverse chemicals have varying effects on the skin, with some substances exhibiting the capacity to augment the skin’s barrier function and provide favorable therapeutic results. The use of emulsifiers, as an example, has the capacity to undermine the integrity of the skin’s protective barrier. Nevertheless, it has been shown that petrolatum has the capacity to rapidly reinstate this protective barrier. Table 1.1 provides a full delineation of many alternatives for moisturizers.
Types of moisturizers
Emollients
Long-chain saturated fatty acids, including stearic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, and fatty alcohols, are often used as emollients and are present in various substances such as lanolin, coconut
oil, and palm oil. Emollients have been seen to have an effect on the physiology and pathology of the skin via a range of methods, including the modulation of eicosanoid synthesis, the regulation of membrane fluidity, and the modulation of cell signaling pathways. One of the notable therapeutic advantages is the enhancement of skin regeneration and permeability.
Humectants
Certain humectants also exhibit emollient characteristics. The hydration process of the stratum corneum is influenced by the presence of soluble hygroscopic compounds with low molecular weight, including lactic acid, pyrolidone carboxylic acid, and amino acids [6]. Humidifiers are often used in combination with occlusives to enhance the moisture retention properties of the outermost layer of the skin, known as the epidermal barrier. Humectants has the ability to augment the uptake of water from the dermal layer to the epidermal layer, potentially leading to an increase in trans-epidermal water loss. The compounds included in the study as examples of humectants include alpha hydroxy acids such as carboxylic acid, lactic acid, sodium pyrrolidine, and glycolic acid, as well as propylene and butylene glycol.
Occlusives
The use of occlusives on wet skin is particularly noteworthy as they possess the capacity to create a hydrophobic barrier, so efficiently preserving moisture and enhancing the inter corneocyte matrix. The efficacy of occlusive compounds is heightened by the mechanism of diffusion into the intercellular lipid areas. Petroleum refers to the mineral oil sources characterized by complex compositions of hydrocarbons. Petrolatum and liquid paraffin are recognized as the two principal components of substantial importance. Based on the findings of a study [16], it has been shown that petrolatum, when present at a minimum concentration of 5%, has a much higher water vapor loss resistance compared to olive oil, with a superiority of 170 times. The aforementioned attribute solidifies petrolatum’s status as the most efficacious traditional occlusive moisturizer currently accessible. Multiple research studies have provided evidence indicating that substances such as lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones (specifically dimethicone) has the capacity to significantly reduce the process of trans-epidermal water loss by around 30%. Lanolin is a component that has widespread recognition and appreciation due to its multifunctionality and utilitarian qualities. Lanolin is derived from the sebaceous glands of sheep and is composed of a wide array of fatty acids, alcohols, hydroxyesters, and high molecular weight esters. The lack of triglycerides serves as a distinguishing characteristic between it and human sebum. Occlusives may lack aesthetic attractiveness compared to other solutions because to their oily texture, bad odor, and possibly allergic qualities.
1.5 Moisturizer Formulations
Typically, a moisturizer is composed of a combination of humectants, occlusives, and emollients. The use of a combination of humectants and occlusives augments the skin’s capacity to maintain hydration. The use of certain emollients in moisturizers has been shown to improve the stability and cosmetic properties of the active compounds. The concurrent use of glycerol and occlusives has a synergistic impact on the mitigation of skin dryness. Emulsions are the prevailing form of cosmetic composition, whereby lotions (oil-in-water) and creams (water-in-oil) are the most extensively used variants. Sophisticated emulsions, such as oil-in-water-in-oil, oleaginous combinations, serums, gels, sprays, and milks, are used to effectively transport and preserve the stability of certain active chemicals. In the event that the patient expresses dissatisfaction with the recommended moisturizer, it is probable that their adherence to its use will be suboptimal. The selection of a moisturizer is influenced by customer preferences and specific aims. The modification of the oil-to-water ratio, occlusives, and emollients in the formula is influenced by many elements, including diverse skin types (oily, normal, and dry), regional circumstances, and prior dermatological conditions. According to dermatologists, it is customary to suggest therapeutic moisturizers that fulfill certain requirements, such as being hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic, and compatible with the patient’s existing treatment regimen
1.6 Moisturizer Application Methods
The efficacy of moisturizers is optimized when they are administered at certain periods and in specific manners. Occlusive oils, humectants, and hydrophilic matrices are recommended for use on damp skin after a shower or sponge bath due to their ability to attract moisture from the atmosphere or deeper layers of the skin. The application of moisturizer should be performed with care, using gentle motions that follow the direction of the hair follicles. Prior to application, it is recommended to massage the product between the hands. The development of oil folliculitis resulting from excessive friction might potentially be prevented by providing the patient with explicit guidance on the proper use of the product. The quantity and manner of moisturizing dispersion are contingent upon the mode of transportation. The uniformity of component dispersion in thick ointments is more apparent compared to formulations with low viscosity and high volatility. The efficacy of creams and ointments in delivering their active components to adjacent surfaces surpasses that of lotions and tinctures. Following application, chemicals have the potential to exit the body by many mechanisms such as evaporation, sloughing off, skin absorption, metabolism, or remaining on the skin’s surface. In the latter case, these compounds may have interactions with other substances or undergo evaporation. The study revealed that, over a duration of eight hours, just 50% of the moisturizer was seen to persist on the surface of the skin. Consequently, the frequency of product use should be adjusted accordingly, ranging from one to three times per day, based on the extent of dryness.
1.7 Adverse Effects of Moisturizer
There are several disadvantages associated with the use of moisturizers. In contrast to other topical therapies, it may be argued that moisturizers do not pose significant risks to one’s health, even when used extensively to large areas of the body over extended durations. Moisturizers have the potential to induce a range of adverse effects for a significant number of individuals due to the inclusion of chemicals that may provoke irritation in those with sensitive skin. Skin irritation is a frequently seen unpleasant response, characterized by the presence or absence of typical indications of inflammation, which might vary based on an individual’s perspective.
1.8 Therapeutic Use of Moisturizer
In the context of dry skin, the use of moisturizers has the potential to mitigate many dermatological concerns. The development of dry skin is influenced by a complex interplay between genetic predisposition and environmental factors. Various factors have been identified as potential contributors to the development of certain conditions, such as dry air, cold weather, exposure to chemicals or microbes, advanced age, emotional or mental stress, and the presence of atopic dermatitis or eczema [23-25]. This article provides a comprehensive examination of many types of dermatitis, including atopic, seborrheic, contact, and nummular dermatitis. The primary focus of this discussion is on the therapeutic use of moisturizers in the treatment of these conditions.
Moisturizers that include natural oils are often used in the management and prophylaxis of dermatoses, such as atopic dermatitis. Limited data is currently accessible about the safety and effectiveness of the aforementioned subject matter. There exists a contention about the moisturizing and protective properties of natural oils, positing that these attributes are significantly influenced by the relative proportions of oleic acid and linoleic acid present in these oils. There are inherent benefits associated with ratios characterized by a higher predominance of linoleic acid and a lesser predominance of oleic acid. In some instances, the use of steroids might potentially be reduced with the augmentation of linoleic acid levels. This phenomenon may be attributed to the shown efficacy of the treatment in reducing the severity of atopic dermatitis, enhancing skin hydration, and expediting the development and restoration of the skin’s protective barrier. Sunflower seed oil, and sea buckthorn seed oil have the highest proportions of linoleic acid to oleic acid among natural oils. Current research have shown that sunflower seed oil has notable advantages in terms of barrier repair and maintenance. The research study discovered a significant decrease of 41% in the risk of
Nosocomial infections among preterm newborns from Bangladesh as compared to the control group. Conversely, studies have shown that olive oil may have the ability to significantly compromise the integrity of the skin’s protective barrier. The observed phenomenon may be attributed to the relatively low ratio of linoleic acid to oleic acid, which leads to disturbances in the lipid composition and homeostasis of the stratum corneum, the outermost epidermal layer. Further research is required to ascertain the safety and efficacy of natural oils in the prevention and treatment of dermatoses.
Research has shown that the use of humectants, such as a 10% urea solution, may lead to a significant reduction in trans-epidermal water loss in individuals affected by atopic illnesses. Both individuals with atopic skin and those with normal skin have reported experiencing alleviation of irritation caused by sodium lauryl sulfate after the use of urea. Mice afflicted with atopic dermatitis exhibited a rapid augmentation in cutaneous moisture subsequent to the administration of a moisturizer formulated with glycerin. Furthermore, the use of alphahydroxy acids has been shown to be beneficial in the realm of dry skin care. Nevertheless, it has been shown that the L-isomer of lactic acid has the ability to induce ceramide production, thus highlighting the need of considering this factor. Consequently, there is an increase in ceramide levels inside the stratum corneum, resulting in enhanced resistance to dryness and reinforcement of the skin’s lipid barrier function.
Ceramides play a vital role in restoring the skin’s ability to retain moisture and function as a protective barrier. Recent research has shown that inadequate levels of ceramide in the epidermis constitute a significant risk factor in the pathogenesis of several skin disorders, such as atopic dermatitis. Ceramides constitute about 50% of the lipids present in the stratum corneum, suggesting a significant proportion within its composition. Ceramides have shown efficacy as an adjunctive treatment for eczema, namely in the restoration of the epidermal lipid barrier, as evidenced by many clinical studies. The application of a topical mixture containing the optimal molar ratio (3:1:1) of three key lipids found in the stratum corneum, namely ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, has been shown to significantly enhance the restoration of the skin barrier, as evidenced by a study conducted by Chamlin.
This outcome was seen subsequent to various external incidents, characterized by either acute or chronic disruptions in the integrity of the skin’s protective barrier. Physiological lipids, including as ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, have the ability to permeate both intact and impaired stratum corneum. This stands in contrast to lipid combinations, such as petrolatum, which are not naturally occurring. Moisturizers that include ceramides, whether derived from natural sources or artificially produced, are often recommended for the management of atopic dermatitis due to their beneficial properties. Lipophilic substances such as cholesterol and ceramides are often included in the formulation of creams for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. These chemicals have the potential to rapidly interact with liposomes, hence enhancing the structural
integrity of the skin. The use of nanoparticle-based triceramides has been employed to enhance the skin’s capacity to retain moisture.
1.9 Xeroderma
Xeroderma, known as “dry skin” in medical terminology, is a commonly seen disorder distinguished by the manifestation of scaling, flaking, tightness, and roughness of the skin. The occurrence of pruritus might lead to an increased susceptibility to skin infections and abrasions. Xeroderma is a multifaceted illness characterized by a wide array of etiological variables, including elements such as the intrinsic process of aging, comorbid medical disorders, pharmaceutical interventions, and environmental stimuli. This exercise provides a thorough examination of the assessment and treatment of xeroderma, with a focus on the collaborative approach of the interdisciplinary healthcare team in supporting patients affected by this illness.
Causes
• “Skin cleansing: taking frequent, long, hot showers. Using harsh, alkaline soaps
• Environmental factors: cold weather, low humidity, dry indoor heat, intense exposure to sunlight
• Occupational factors: contact with irritant agents (i.e., chemicals used in hairdressing or housekeeping)
Endogenous Causes
Skin diseases
• “Inflammatory skin disorders: atopic dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, dyshidrotic eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, etc
• Infectious skin disorders (in the chronic phase): scabies, bacterial, or fungal infections
• Genodermatoses: xeroderma pigmentosum, ichthyoses (harlequin, etc.)
• Neoplasms: cutaneous T-cell lymphoma.
The integumentary system comprises the skin, which serves as a vital exterior layer that fulfills the crucial role of acting as a main physical barrier against the external environment. The organ under consideration has the distinction of being the biggest and most essential, given its pivotal function in safeguarding the organism. The skin has two primary purposes, namely the regulation of body temperature and the provision of protection against various external elements such as diseases, germs, toxins, physical injuries, and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Furthermore, the integumentary system serves crucial functions in immunological surveillance, sensory perception, the regulation of insensible fluid loss, and the maintenance of general homeostasis. Moreover, the skin has a remarkable degree of adaptability, since it exhibits diverse thicknesses and serves separate functions in various regions of the body. In regions characterized by a notable presence of cutaneous tissue, such as the palmar and plantar surfaces, the epidermal layer undergoes further cellular proliferation, leading to the development of five discernible strata. The layers indicated above are typically known as the stratum basale, stratum spinosum, stratum granulosum, stratum lucidum, and stratum corneum. Conversely, it is worth mentioning that some regions of the epidermis are comprised of just four layers, excluding the stratum lucidum.The dermis is composed of two discrete layers, namely the papillary dermis situated at the highest level, and the reticular dermis positioned underneath it. The skin performs several functions:
The skin serves as the principal physical barrier of the human body, offering protection against several external hazards such as microorganisms, elevated temperatures, ultraviolet radiation, and mechanical trauma.The integumentary system serves as the principal organ responsible for perceiving sensations such as nociception, thermos reception, tactility, and proprioception.
Mobility: The integumentary system facilitates seamless and unimpeded bodily movement.
The integumentary system assumes a pivotal function in the commencement of Vitamin D biosynthesis, an essential step for the assimilation of calcium and the preservation of ideal bone metabolism.
The release of a combination including ammonia, urea, and water is associated with exocrine activity. The integumentary system performs essential immunological tasks by releasing bioactive molecules, such as cytokines. Furthermore, it generates a multitude of chemicals like perspiration, sebum and pheromones.
The phenomenon of developing immunity against pathogens.
The management of temperature regulation. The integumentary system serves a crucial function in regulating body temperature and maintaining homeostasis and hydration via the facilitation of heat absorption or dissipation.
1.10 Conclusion: The Importance of Moisturizer for Healthy Skin
Moisturizer is an essential component of any skincare routine, regardless of skin type or age. It plays a crucial role in maintaining the skin’s hydration, protecting its natural barrier, and keeping it soft, smooth, and healthy. By providing essential moisture, a good moisturizer helps prevent dryness, irritation, and premature aging caused by environmental factors. It also supports the skin’s ability to repair itself and defend against harmful external influences like pollution, sun exposure, and harsh weather conditions.
For those with dry or sensitive skin, using a moisturizer regularly is even more critical, as it helps restore lost moisture and reduce discomfort like itching, flaking, and tightness. Beyond its functional benefits, moisturizers enriched with active ingredients like antioxidants, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid can promote long-term skin health, improving elasticity, texture, and overall appearance.
Incorporating a suitable moisturizer into your daily skincare routine is one of the simplest and most effective ways to ensure your skin remains nourished, balanced, and protected. Whether you have oily, combination, or dry skin, moisturizing is a vital practice that supports both the beauty and health of your skin.
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